![]() ![]() I have seen prices of $600-1,200 for a day of work to drop the cradle (only way to do it right) to peel off the OEM bushings and then to simply bolt it back together with the new arms. ![]() Happy modifying because that description of parts alone is about $1,000. That complete set of rear adjustable control arms replaces the suspension bushings AND allows a perfect alignment, which is also important to the performance we all desire. They are not keeping up and won’t admit it. I recommend Whiteline cradle bushings, and yes the same set fits ALL of our SRT models made the last ten years. While it has great behavior and screams ahead, with the right conditions and with an ignorant quick right foot, it can still hop just a bit. Why do I say just greatly diminished? I have everything replaced except the differential set. If you replace all the cradle bushings, the differential bushings and every control arm bushing with each replacement the hop will get better until you replace everything, then the hop will be greatly diminished. I like the description above “jello bushings”. Wheel hop is caused by the slip-stick motion of the rear wheels caused by the weak, soft bushings in the rear end. It has nothing to do with tires, except some get more or less traction.
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